The first time I stood in front of my All American pressure canner, I stared at it for a solid five minutes. It looked like a piece of equipment Rick had dragged in from his shop. All that metal. The clamps. The gauge. The weight sitting on top making me wonder “what in the world does this do?”
Water bath canning? I had that down. Comfortable. Friendly. Almost charming.
Pressure canning felt like I needed a certification and a fire extinguisher.
Turns out — it’s not scary. It’s just specific.
Once you understand why you’re doing each step, the whole thing settles into a simple, repeatable process. And now? I run that canner multiple times a week during peak season. Potatoes, chicken, beef broth from our own cattle, dry beans for the pantry.
It just runs in the background while I’m doing everything else.
If you’ve been putting this off because the pressure canner on your shelf (or your mother’s shelf) makes you nervous — this is the guide that’s going to fix that.
👉 New to preserving? Start here: Home Canning & Preserving: The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Putting Up Food the Right Way
What Is Pressure Canning and Why Does It Matter?
Pressure canning is the only safe method for preserving low-acid foods at home. That one sentence is the most important thing in this entire post. Read it again.
Here’s the reason it matters:
Water bath canning tops out at 212°F — the boiling point of water. That temperature is sufficient for high-acid foods like jams, pickles, and tomatoes. But low-acid foods — vegetables, meats, beans, soups — can harbor a bacteria called Clostridium botulinum. The spores that produce botulism toxin can survive at 212°F.
Pressure canning reaches 240°F and above. That’s the temperature that destroys those spores completely.
No drama, no fear-mongering. Just the fact that explains why pressure canning exists and why you can’t substitute a water bath canner for low-acid foods.
What Foods Must Be Pressure Canned?
• All vegetables: green beans, carrots, corn, potatoes, pumpkin
• All meats: beef, chicken, pork, venison
• Bone broth and stock
• Soups, stews, and chili
• Dry beans: pinto, navy, black beans, chickpeas
• Pasta sauces with added vegetables (onions, peppers, mushrooms)
Simple rule: if it’s not a jam, pickle, or plain high-acid fruit — it needs to be pressure canned.
What Cannot Be Pressure Canned — Ever
Pressure canning solves a lot of food preservation problems — but it doesn’t solve all of them. There are foods that are not approved for home canning regardless of method, and others that are specifically unsafe in a pressure canner even though they seem like they should work.
These cannot be safely pressure canned:
Pumpkin or Winter Squash Puree
This is the big one. Cubed pumpkin and cubed butternut squash are approved for pressure canning. Pureed pumpkin is not — ever. The density of the puree prevents heat from penetrating to the center of the jar reliably, even at correct pressure and processing time. This means the coldest spot in the jar may never reach 240°F. The USDA has never approved a tested recipe for canned pumpkin puree and neither has the National Center for Home Food Preservation. Can your pumpkin in cubes and puree it when you open the jar. I was a little bummed to find this out – I grow a lot of pumpkins and had big plans to pressure can pumpkin puree, instead now I just pressure can the cubed pumpkin – no big loss.
Butter and Dairy
No tested safe process exists for home canning butter, milk, cream, or cheese. Canned butter recipes circulating online are not USDA approved. Don’t do it. I’ve seen homesteaders can butter and swear by it — but an untested process with dairy and botulism risk is not a chance I’m willing to take. For long-term storage, I freeze butter, cheese, and milk. For shelf-stable dairy, I keep dried milk and commercially canned products on hand. Simple solution, no risk.
Flour, Starch, and Thickeners
This includes Clear Jel Cook Type — are not approved for pressure canned products. Clear Jel is approved for specific water bath canned products like pie fillings, but even that approval does not extend to pressure canning. Can your soups, stews, and sauces thin and thicken on the stovetop after opening.
Pasta and Rice
These absorb liquid during processing and creates density issues. Can your soup base without them and add pasta or rice when you heat it to serve.
Eggs
No safe home canning method exists for whole eggs or egg-based products.
Nut Butters
Peanut butter, almond butter, and similar products are too dense for safe heat penetration.
Mashed or Pureed Vegetables
Same issue as pumpkin puree. Can vegetables in pieces and mash or puree after opening.
The rule behind all of these is the same: density blocks heat penetration. If the center of the jar can’t reliably reach 240°F for the full processing time, the food cannot be safely pressure canned regardless of how long you run it.
Before we go any further — if you’re new here, I put together a free Water Bath Canning Checklist that pairs perfectly with this guide. It’s a simple printable that walks you through every step of water bath canning so you have both methods covered. Drop your email below and I’ll send it straight to your inbox.
Water Bath Canning vs. Pressure Canning: Which One Do You Need?
This is the question every beginner asks. Here’s the simple answer, and then the full comparison.
- High-acid foods (pH 4.6 or below) → Water bath canner
- Low-acid foods (pH above 4.6) → Pressure canner
- If you’re ever unsure — assume pressure canning.
| WATER BATH CANNING | PRESSURE CANNING |
| Maximum temperature: 212°F | Maximum temperature: 240°F+ |
| Safe for high-acid foods only | Required for ALL low-acid foods |
| Jams, jellies, pickles, tomatoes (with added acid), fruits | Vegetables, meats, poultry, beans, soups, broth |
| Jars fully submerged in boiling water | Jars sit on rack in steam — not submerged |
| Simpler equipment | Requires a pressure canner (NOT a pressure cooker) |
| Shorter processing times for most recipes | Processing times vary: 20 to 90+ minutes depending on food |
| Less intimidating for beginners | Steeper learning curve — but very manageable after first batch |
👉 Prefer the simpler method? Learn: Water Bath Canning: Step-by-Step How to Guide
Pressure Canner vs. Pressure Cooker: This Is Not the Same Thing
This comes up constantly, so let’s be completely clear about it.
A pressure cooker is designed for cooking food fast. It was not engineered to maintain sustained, calibrated pressure for food preservation. It does not have the gauges or safety mechanisms required for safe home canning.
A pressure canner is specifically built for canning. It’s larger, heavier, and designed to hold sustained pressure at precise levels for the full processing time required by tested recipes.
Using a pressure cooker for canning — including Instant Pot, even the ones with a “canning setting” — is not approved by the USDA and is not safe. The internal temperature cannot be reliably verified, which means you cannot confirm that botulism spores were destroyed.
Bottom line: If it didn’t come labeled as a pressure CANNER, don’t use it for canning. EVER!
Dial Gauge vs. Weighted Gauge Pressure Canners: What’s the Difference?
This is a question that trips up many beginners, and it matters because the two types operate differently.
Dial Gauge Canners
A dial gauge canner has a numbered gauge on the lid that shows you the exact pressure level inside. You watch the needle and manually adjust your burner throughout the entire process to maintain the correct pressure.
- More affordable upfront ($100–$200 typically — Presto is the most common brand)
- Requires constant attention during processing
- The gauge must be tested for accuracy every single year before canning season — contact your county extension office for testing
- If the gauge is off, your food may not be safe even if you did everything else right
- Requires a replacement gasket periodically
Weighted Gauge Canners
A weighted gauge canner uses a metal weight (called a regulator or rocker) that sits on the vent pipe and jiggles or rocks to indicate and maintain correct pressure. You set it and listen for the jiggle — that’s your signal that pressure is holding.
- No gauge to test for accuracy — the weight itself is the control mechanism
- No gasket to replace — the All American uses a metal-to-metal seal
- More forgiving to operate — you listen rather than constantly watch a needle
- Higher upfront cost ($250–$500 depending on size)
- The All American is the most well-known weighted gauge canner on the market
Which One Do I Use?
I use the All American. I bought it because I don’t want to drive to the extension office every spring to have a gauge tested, and I don’t want to think about whether my seal is holding. The metal-to-metal seal and weighted gauge mean one less thing to worry about when I’m running multiple batches during tomato season.
It’s a bigger investment upfront. But it’s also the last pressure canner you’ll ever buy.
The All American 921 is the size I recommend for a serious home canning operation — large enough to double stack pint jars, manageable enough for one person to handle. You can find it on Amazon here — All American 921: 21.5qt Pressure Cooker/Canner
It’s a bigger investment upfront. But it’s also the last pressure canner you’ll ever buy.
Equipment You Actually Need (And What You Can Skip)
Let’s keep this practical. You do not need a whole aisle of gadgets to pressure can safely.
Must-Haves
- Pressure canner — not a pressure cooker (see above), this is the one I have been using for years.
- Canning jars — Ball or Kerr Mason jars, pint or quart. Do not use old mayonnaise or pickle jars.
- New lids — flat lids are single-use only. Bands/rings are reusable.
- Jar lifter — non-negotiable. Jars are heavy and hot.
- Canning funnel — keeps your jar rims clean, which matters for a good seal
- Clean towels — for wiping rims before lidding, I prefer paper towels
Helpful But Not Required
- Bubble remover/headspace tool — a thin plastic spatula works fine
- Magnetic lid lifter — useful, not essential
- Rack — your canner should come with one. Never let jars sit directly on the bottom.
Everything you need to get started is available in one kit — jar lifter, canning funnel, bubble remover, and lid wand all in one set. I recommend picking up a canning tools starter kit on Amazon — Norpro Canning Essentials Boxed Set, 6 Piece Set— rather than buying each piece separately. It’s cheaper, it arrives together, and you won’t forget anything.
Altitude and Pressure Canning: Why Your Elevation Changes the Rules
This is one of the most important things beginners miss — and if you’re in Idaho like me, you need to pay attention to it.
At higher elevations, water boils at a lower temperature. That means the standard pressure used for canning at sea level is not sufficient to reach 240°F at higher altitudes. You need to increase your PSI to compensate.
Idaho sits anywhere from 2,000 to over 6,000 feet, depending on where you are. This directly affects your processing pressure.
Altitude Adjustment Table — Weighted Gauge Canners (All American)
| Elevation | Use This Weight Setting | Why It Matters |
| 0 – 1,000 ft (sea level) | 10 lbs | Standard pressure — sea level baseline |
| 1,001 – 10,000 ft | 15 lbs | Higher elevation requires more pressure to reach 240°F |
| Above 10,000 ft | Contact your county extension office | Consult USDA guidelines for your specific elevation |
Altitude Adjustment Table — Dial Gauge Canners
| Elevation | Dial Gauge PSI | Notes |
| 0 – 2,000 ft | 11 lbs PSI | Standard starting point |
| 2,001 – 4,000 ft | 12 lbs PSI | |
| 4,001 – 6,000 ft | 13 lbs PSI | |
| 6,001 – 8,000 ft | 14 lbs PSI | |
| Above 8,000 ft | 15 lbs PSI | Contact extension office to confirm |
If you don’t know your exact elevation, search your town or zip code + “elevation in feet” — it takes 30 seconds and it matters.
How to Use a Pressure Canner: Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Prepare Your Food
Follow a tested recipe exactly. This is not the time to improvise or adjust ratios. Tested recipes from the USDA, Ball Blue Book, or the National Center for Home Food Preservation have been laboratory-verified for safety. The processing time is calculated based on the density and acidity of the specific food. Change the recipe and you change the safety equation.
Step 2: Add Water to the Canner
Before you start filling jars, add the amount of hot water specified in your canner’s manual — for the All American 921, you want approximately 2–3 inches of hot water in the bottom of the canner. Place the rack in the bottom and set it over medium heat. By the time you’ve finished filling your jars the water will already be hot and simmering, and you won’t be standing around waiting. You know how it is, waiting for water to heat up — it seems like it takes forever. I don’t have time to waste. Always check your manufacturer’s directions for the exact water amount — it varies by canner brand and model.
Step 3: Fill Your Jars
Pack food into clean, hot jars. Hot jars prevent thermal shock — a cold jar filled with hot food can crack. Leave the headspace specified in your recipe — usually 1 inch for low-acid foods. Remove air bubbles by running a thin plastic spatula around the inside of the jar. Wipe the jar rim with a clean damp paper towel dipped in white vinegar — vinegar cuts grease and food residue far better than plain water, especially on hot jar rims where fat from meat or broth tends to smear rather than wipe clean. Any residue or grease left on the rim can prevent a proper seal. This is one of those small steps that makes a real difference.
Step 4: Add Your Jars to the Canner
Place the rack in the bottom if you have not already done so while the water was heating. Load your filled jars onto the rack using your jar lifter — never use your bare hands on hot jars. Do not let jars touch each other. If you’re running a partial load, space jars evenly around the rack rather than clustering them on one side.
Can You Stack Two Layers of Jars in a Pressure Canner?
Yes — and if you’re canning large volumes it’s one of the most efficient things you can do. My All American 921 handles two layers of pint jars and it cuts my canning time significantly during peak season.
The All American 921 (21.5 qt), 930 (19 qt), 941 (41 qt), and 945 (45 qt) all support two layers of pint jars with a second rack. The 915 (10.5 qt) does not — it’s designed for a single layer. Check your specific model’s manual before attempting.
Here’s how to do it correctly:
- You need a second rack — do not attempt to stack jars directly on top of each other without one. The bottom layer of jars cannot safely support the weight of the top layer during processing. The All American sells an additional rack made specifically for this purpose.
- Load the bottom layer first, place the second rack on top, then load the top layer.
- Stagger the top jars between the bottom jars rather than stacking them directly on top — this allows steam to circulate properly between layers.
- Pint jars and half pint jars only. Quart jars are too tall for double stacking.
- Processing time does not change. Same pressure, same time as a single layer load.
- Check that your lid closes and locks properly before you walk away. If it feels tight against the top jars, you have too many in there.
Double stacking is one of those things that feels complicated until you’ve done it once. After that it’s just how you load the canner.
Step 5: Lock the Lid and Heat
Before you lock the lid down, take 10 seconds to do one safety check: hold the vent pipe up to the light and look through it. You should be able to see straight through with no obstruction. Food residue, mineral deposits, or debris from a previous canning session can partially block the vent pipe without being obvious from the outside. A blocked vent pipe means steam cannot escape properly during venting and pressure cannot regulate correctly during processing. Clear pipe, every single time, before every single batch.
For the All American, align the lid and tighten the wing nuts evenly in a cross pattern — don’t tighten one side fully before the others.
Step 6: Vent the Steam — 10 Full Minutes (Do Not Skip This)
Turn your burner to medium-high and leave the weight off the vent pipe for now. Within a few minutes you’ll see steam beginning to escape from the vent pipe. Do not start your 10-minute timer yet.
Wait for a full, steady stream of steam — not a wisp, not an occasional puff, but a continuous column of steam that doesn’t stop. That’s your signal that air is actively being purged from the canner. Once you have that steady stream, start your 10-minute timer. This step purges air from inside the canner and ensures accurate pressure throughout processing. Skipping or shortening it leads to incorrect internal pressure and potentially unsafe food.
A common beginner mistake is starting the timer too early — at the first sign of any steam. If you do that, air remains trapped inside the canner and your pressure gauge will read incorrectly throughout the entire process. The 10 minutes starts when the steam is strong and steady. Not before.
Step 7: Add the Weight and Bring to Pressure
After 10 minutes of steady venting, place the weighted gauge (rocker) onto the vent pipe.
The All American weighted gauge has three pressure settings marked on it: 5, 10, and 15 pounds. For most pressure canning recipes at sea level to 1,000 feet elevation, you will use the 10-pound setting. Above 1,000 feet — which includes most of Idaho — you will use the 15-pound setting.
To set it: place the weight on the vent pipe with your chosen number’s hole positioned over the vent pipe opening. The weight does the rest — it rocks and jiggles to maintain that pressure automatically throughout processing. You don’t adjust it once it’s on.
Quick reference:
- 0 – 1,000 ft elevation → 10 lb setting
- Above 1,000 ft elevation → 15 lb setting
- The 5 lb setting is rarely used in standard pressure canning — check your specific recipe if it calls for it
The pressure will begin building inside the canner. Once the weight begins to jiggle — that’s your signal that you’ve reached operating pressure. At this point, reduce your heat until the weight jiggles gently 1–4 times per minute. Constant, aggressive jiggling means your pressure is too high and you’re losing moisture. Steady, occasional jiggling is exactly what you want.
If steam is escaping in a steady stream after you’ve reduced the heat, nudge the weight gently to reseat it over the vent pipe opening — that will usually correct it.
The first few times I used my pressure canner, I timed the jiggles per minute with a stopwatch. Nervous doesn’t quite cover it — that weighted gauge had me on pins and needles every single batch. A few runs later, and I never think about it twice.
Step 8: Process for the Full Required Time
Start your processing timer the moment the weight begins to jiggle at the correct rate. Do not adjust your timer if pressure drops — if it drops significantly, you must bring it back to pressure and restart the full processing time.
Processing times vary widely by food and jar size. Green beans in pint jars: 20 minutes. Quart jars of chicken: 90 minutes. Always follow the recipe — don’t guess.
Tip: Besides your timer, write the start time down on a piece of paper or use a second separate timer as a backup. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve accidentally turned off the timer on my phone and had no way of knowing how long the batch had been processing. Write it down. It takes five seconds and it has saved me more than once.
Step 9: Turn Off the Heat and Let It Cool Naturally
When processing time is complete, turn off the burner. Leave the canner completely alone.
Do not: remove the weight, open the lid, try to rush cooling by running water over the canner, or move it to a cold surface. All of these can cause seal failure or jar breakage.
The canner needs to depressurize on its own. This typically takes 30–60 minutes depending on canner size and what was processed.
Step 10: Remove the Weight, Wait 10 More Minutes, Then Open
Once the canner has fully depressurized — the gauge reads zero and the safety plug has dropped — it’s time to remove the weight. Before you do, read this.
The weight is solid metal. It has been sitting on a pressurized, steaming canner for the entire processing time. It is hot, even after cooling. Use a folded kitchen towel or silicone mitt to lift it off the vent pipe — never your bare fingers.
The second thing nobody warns you about: when you lift the weight off, residual steam releases from the vent pipe directly onto your fingertips if you are not careful. Even if you grabbed the weight carefully, that steam will find you on the way down.
The first time I did this, I burned my fingers twice in about three seconds — once on the weight itself and once from the steam as I let go. The good news is that when that happens, you don’t forget. I haven’t made that mistake again, and neither will you after reading this.
Use a towel. Keep your fingers clear of the vent pipe opening as you lift. Set the weight on a heat-safe surface and walk away from it for a few minutes.
Then wait 10 more minutes. Then carefully tilt the lid away from you to release any remaining steam before fully removing it.
Step 11: Remove Jars and Cool
Using your jar lifter, remove jars and place them on a towel-covered surface. Leave 1–2 inches of space between jars for air circulation. Do not tilt or touch the lids.
Let them sit undisturbed for 12–24 hours.
Listen for the ping. That quiet little pop from each lid as it seals is one of the most satisfying sounds a homestead kitchen makes.
What Should You Can First? Start Here.
If you’ve never run a pressure canner before, my recommendation is to start with green beans or chicken broth.
Here’s why: both are forgiving, the processing times are straightforward, and the results are something you’ll actually use. Green beans are simple raw pack — you’re just filling jars, adding salt, and processing. Chicken broth involves nothing more than liquid. Neither requires the density calculations or density concerns that come with something like chili or thick soup.
Do one full batch of green beans from start to finish before you try anything more complex. By the end of it, you’ll understand exactly how your canner behaves — how long it takes to vent, how your stove holds pressure, how the weight sounds when it’s jiggling correctly.
That knowledge is worth more than any guide you’ll ever read.
Once you’re comfortable with the process, beef is one of the most rewarding things you can put up — tender, shelf-stable, and ready to pull straight from the jar into a meal. Here is how to How to Pressure Can Beef, the hot pack method. And if you’ve got bones left over, don’t throw them out — I walk through exactly what to do with them in my pressure canning beef broth post.
Common Pressure Canning Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
Not Checking the Vent Pipe Before Each Batch
Before every canning session, hold the vent pipe up to the light and look through it. It should be completely clear. A partial blockage from food residue or mineral buildup can prevent proper venting and pressure regulation without giving you any obvious warning sign that something is wrong. Ten seconds before you lock the lid could save an entire batch — or worse.
Skipping the 10-Minute Venting Step
This is the most common beginner mistake. If air is not fully purged from the canner before you add the weight, the pressure gauge will read incorrectly. Your food will not be processed at the correct temperature. The 10 minutes is not optional.
Letting Pressure Fluctuate
Pressure that spikes high and drops low throughout processing is almost as problematic as insufficient pressure. Keep your burner steady and your weight jiggling at a consistent slow rate. If pressure drops significantly, bring it back up and restart your timer.
Overpacking Jars
Food needs space and liquid to heat evenly throughout the jar. Overpacked jars don’t process correctly. Leave the headspace your recipe specifies — no more, no less.
Using a Pressure Cooker Instead of a Pressure Canner
Already covered above — but it bears repeating here because it comes up so often. Not safe. Not USDA approved. Don’t do it.
Improvising Recipes
Canning safety is not a place for creativity. The processing times in tested recipes account for the specific density, acidity, and heat penetration rate of that exact food. Changing the ingredient ratio, jar size, or pack method alters the heat penetration equation. Follow tested recipes exactly.
Rushing the Cooldown
Running cold water over the canner, opening the lid early, moving it to a cold surface — all of these can cause thermal shock that shatters jars, causes seal failure, or creates a dangerous steam release. It is important to let the canner do its job on its own timeline.
How to Tell If Your Jars Sealed Properly
After 12–24 hours of cooling, here’s how to check:
- The lid should be flat and curved slightly downward — not domed upward
- Press the center of the lid. It should not flex or pop. A properly sealed lid is rigid.
- You can gently lift the jar by the lid alone — a sealed jar will hold
- Remove the band and try to lift the lid with your fingers. If it holds firm, it’s sealed.
If a jar didn’t seal — put it in the refrigerator and eat it within a few days. It’s not a failed batch, it’s dinner this week. It happens to everyone.
If your jars don’t seal after processing, Why Did My Canning Jars Not Seal? walks through every cause and the exact fix — worth a read before your next batch.
Once your jars are sealed and on the shelf, knowing how to check them before you open is just as important — Is My Canned Food Safe? covers every sign to look for.
How Long Does Pressure Canned Food Last?
Properly pressure canned food stored in a cool, dark, dry location is shelf stable for a minimum of 1 year. Most sources cite 1–2 years for peak quality, though food that was processed correctly and has a good seal is typically safe well beyond that.
Quality — texture, color, flavor — may decline after 1–2 years even if safety is maintained. That’s why rotating your pantry stock matters. Use oldest jars first, replace as you go.
Store jars without bands after they’ve cooled and sealed. Bands left on can rust and give a false sense of security if a seal has failed — you won’t feel the lid flex if the band is holding it down.
One more thing worth mentioning — stacking jars in storage.
The official recommendation is to place cardboard or a non-slip mat between layers to protect lids and distribute weight. Honestly? I stack my half pints and pints directly without anything between them and have never had a problem. Quart jars I’m more careful with — the weight adds up fast. Use your judgment, know your jars, and always check your seals every time you pull one from storage, regardless of how they were stacked.
Cool, dark, and dry is your storage target. A basement, root cellar, or interior pantry away from temperature swings and direct light. Heat and light degrade both quality and seal integrity over time.
What to Can Next: More From the Canning & Preserving Hub
Once you’ve run your first batch and the canner doesn’t feel scary anymore, here’s where to go next:
- Water Bath Canning for Beginners post — start here if you haven’t already
- No-Soak Method for Canning Dry Beans — one of the best pantry moves you’ll ever make
- Easy Canned Tomato Sauce (No Peeling Required!) — 100 pints a season from our garden; here’s how we do it
👉 Want the full picture? Explore the complete system here: Canning & Preserving Hub page – full guide index.
Once you’ve got the basics down, chicken is one of the best first projects — here’s exactly how to do it: How to Safely Pressure Can Chicken (Raw Pack Method)
Final Thoughts
Pressure canning feels intimidating right up until the moment it doesn’t.
And that moment comes somewhere around your first batch of green beans — when the weight starts jiggling, the timer is running, and you realize you’re doing it. You’re actually doing it.
You’re not just preserving food, you’re building a pantry that works. One that lets you walk into your kitchen in February and pull down a jar of chicken you put up in October, or a quart of green beans from your own garden that’s been sitting quietly on the shelf waiting for exactly this meal.
That’s the point of all of it. Not the equipment, not the technique — the independence that comes from knowing your shelves are stocked with food you grew and processed yourself.
Once you have that, store shelves start to matter a whole lot less.
Simple Living ❤️ Country Style — one dependable jar at a time.
If you’re just getting started with pressure canning — or if you’ve been doing it for years and have a tip I didn’t cover — I’d love to hear from you. Drop a question or a comment below. I read every single one.
And if this guide helped you finally stop being nervous about that canner on your shelf — tell me. That’s exactly why I wrote it.
Want more from-scratch homestead canning guides sent straight to your inbox? Join the Our Country Life community below. No spam — just real food preservation from a real working Idaho homestead.
How to Use a Pressure Canner
Equipment
- Pressure Canner
- Basic canning equipment
- Canning Jar with new lids and bands
- Second rack for optional double stacking
Instructions
- Check the vent pipe by holding it up to the light — it should be completely clear with no obstruction.
- Add 2–3 inches of hot water to the bottom of the canner. Place the rack in and set over medium heat.
- Pack food into clean hot jars leaving 1 inch headspace. Remove air bubbles. Wipe jar rims with a paper towel dipped in white vinegar. Apply lids fingertip tight.
- Load filled jars onto the rack using your jar lifter. Do not let jars touch. Space evenly if running a partial load.
- Align the lid and tighten wing nuts evenly in a cross pattern.
- Turn burner to medium-high. Leave the weight off the vent pipe. Wait for a full steady column of steam — not a wisp — then start your 10-minute timer.
- After 10 minutes of steady venting place the weighted gauge on the vent pipe with your chosen pressure number’s hole over the vent pipe opening. Use 10 lbs at 0–1,000 ft elevation. Use 15 lbs above 1,000 ft.
- Once the weight begins to jiggle reduce heat until it jiggles gently 1–4 times per minute. Write down your start time as a backup.
- Process for the full time required by your tested recipe. If pressure drops significantly bring it back up and restart the timer.
- When processing is complete turn off the heat. Do not touch the canner. Allow it to depressurize naturally — 30 to 60 minutes.
- Using a folded towel lift the weighted gauge off the vent pipe carefully — it is hot and residual steam will release. Wait 10 more minutes. Tilt the lid away from you before fully removing.
- Remove jars with your jar lifter and place on a towel-covered surface with 1–2 inches between jars. Do not tilt or touch lids. Let sit undisturbed 12–24 hours. Listen for the ping.
Notes
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Frequently Asked Questions About Pressure Canning
Is pressure canning dangerous?
No — when you follow tested recipes and proper procedures, pressure canning is extremely safe. Modern pressure canners are built with locking lids, safety vents, and pressure regulators. The old stories about explosions come from pre-1970s equipment or from people who modified or ignored their canner’s safety mechanisms. Follow the steps, follow tested recipes, and you have nothing to worry about.
Can I use a pressure cooker for canning?
No. A pressure cooker is not a pressure canner and is not approved for home canning by the USDA. This includes Instant Pot and similar electric pressure cookers, even models with a “canning” setting. The internal temperature of a pressure cooker cannot be reliably verified during processing, which means you cannot confirm that botulism spores were destroyed. Only use equipment labeled as a pressure canner.
Do I need to sterilize jars before pressure canning?
No. Unlike water bath canning for some high-acid foods, pressure canning does not require sterilized jars. Clean and hot is sufficient — the canner reaches temperatures that sterilize both the jar and its contents during processing. Run your jars through a hot dishwasher cycle or keep them in hot water until you’re ready to fill them.
What PSI should I use for pressure canning?
This depends on your elevation and your canner type. At sea level (0–1,000 ft), use 10 lbs on a weighted gauge canner like the All American, or 11 PSI on a dial gauge canner. Above 1,000 feet, adjust upward — see the altitude table in this post for specifics. If you’re in Idaho, most of the state sits above 2,000 feet, so check your elevation before your first batch.
What’s the difference between the All American and Presto pressure canners?
The All American uses a weighted gauge and a metal-to-metal seal — no gasket to replace and no gauge to test annually. It’s more expensive upfront ($250–$500) but essentially maintenance-free. Presto canners use a dial gauge and a rubber gasket, which must be replaced periodically, and the gauge must be tested for accuracy every year at your county extension office. Both produce safe results when used correctly. I use the All American because I prefer the reliability and lower long-term maintenance.
Which number do I use on the All American pressure canner weight?
The All American weighted gauge has three settings: 5, 10, and 15 pounds. For most pressure canning recipes at sea level to 1,000 feet use the 10-pound setting. Above 1,000 feet — which includes most of Idaho and much of the Mountain West — use the 15-pound setting. Place the weight on the vent pipe with your chosen number’s hole positioned over the vent pipe opening.
Do I have to fill the entire canner, or can I run a partial load?
You can run a partial load. The USDA recommends a minimum of 2 quart jars or 4 pint jars at a time. Use the same pressure and processing time as a full load — do not reduce either.
Can you stack two layers of jars in a pressure canner?
Yes, if your canner model supports it. My All American 921 handles two layers of pint and half pint jars with a second rack between layers. Never stack jars directly on top of each other without a rack — they will crack under pressure. Stagger the top layer between the bottom jars for proper steam circulation. Processing time does not change for a double stacked load. See the full double stacking guide in Step 4 above.
Why does my pressure canner lose liquid from the jars during processing?
Some liquid loss is normal — usually less than half an inch. Excessive liquid loss is typically caused by pressure fluctuations (too high or dropping too fast), not venting long enough before adding the weight, or overpacking jars. As long as the jar is sealed, minor liquid loss does not affect safety. If a jar lost so much liquid that the food is exposed above the liquid line, refrigerate and use it promptly rather than storing it as shelf-stable.
Can you over-process food in a pressure canner?
Yes — but the concern is quality, not safety. Processing food longer than the tested recipe requires will not make it unsafe to eat. What it will do is affect texture, color, and flavor. Green beans go mushy. Meat gets dry and stringy. Potatoes fall apart. The food is still safe — it’s just not going to be very good.
What you cannot do is under-process. Short processing time is a genuine safety issue. Over-processing is a quality issue. If you lose track of time and run a batch five or ten minutes long, don’t panic — refrigerate and eat it soon if the quality seems off, or store it and use it first.
Pressure that runs too high throughout processing is a related concern — excessive pressure combined with a full processing time can cause significant liquid loss and texture breakdown. Another reason to keep that weight jiggling at a steady, calm rate rather than rocking aggressively the whole time.
Can I pressure can on a glass top or ceramic stove?
The All American pressure canner is not recommended for glass or ceramic stove tops — the weight of the canner and the metal-to-metal contact can damage the surface. Presto canners are compatible with smooth-top ranges. If you have a glass top stove and want to use an All American, an outdoor propane burner is an option for the processing phase, but note that propane burners often run too hot and too coarse for steady pressure maintenance. Check your stove manufacturer’s guidelines.
Can I pressure can tomatoes?
Yes, but tomatoes are technically a borderline acid food. Plain tomato sauce with added lemon juice or citric acid can go in the water bath canner. The moment you add onions, garlic, peppers, mushrooms, or meat — it goes in the pressure canner. When in doubt, pressure can it. When water bath canning plain tomatoes, USDA guidelines require adding lemon juice or citric acid to ensure adequate acidity.
Can you pressure can pumpkin puree?
No — and this is one of the most important things to know before you start canning pumpkin. The USDA and National Center for Home Food Preservation have never approved a tested recipe for canned pumpkin puree because the density prevents reliable heat penetration to the center of the jar. Cubed pumpkin and cubed butternut squash are approved for pressure canning. Puree is not. Can your pumpkin in cubes and puree it when you open the jar — the result is identical and it’s safe.
How long does pressure canned food last?
Properly sealed and stored pressure canned food is shelf stable for at minimum 1 year, with most sources recommending 1–2 years for peak quality. Store in a cool, dark, dry location and rotate stock — oldest jars used first. Always check for signs of spoilage before eating: off smell, cloudy liquid, or a lid that flexes mean discard without tasting.
Should I wipe jar rims before pressure canning?
Yes — every single time without exception. Dip a paper towel in white vinegar and wipe each rim before placing the lid. Vinegar cuts grease and food residue better than plain water, especially when canning meats and broths where fat can smear on a hot rim. Any residue left on the rim can prevent a proper seal. It takes five seconds per jar and it matters.
How do I know if my pressure canner vent pipe is clogged?
Hold the vent pipe up to the light and look straight through it before every batch. You should see a clear opening with no obstruction. If you can’t see through it clearly, clean it with a small brush or pipe cleaner before proceeding. A clogged vent pipe prevents proper steam venting and pressure regulation — never skip this check.
Hi, I’m Yvonne — the voice behind Our Country Life. I share from-scratch recipes, garden know-how, and simple living inspiration rooted in real farmhouse life. Thanks for being here ❤️
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